Hair is made of protein called Keratin in shingle-like structures named cuticles.  And like shingles on a rooftop, it protects the structure below from weather and external contaminants including color, stains, or other pigments.

So, to get hair colored, color can be either (A) painted / coated on the outside temporally; (B) get inserted / deposited below the cuticles with the help of a chemical Developer, which softens the cuticles and opens the shingle-like structures, so that color pigments become part of the hair permanently; or (C) a varying degree of both. 

Since Temporary or Semi-permanent color is only coated on the exterior of the hair cuticle it does not require a Developer and tends to be gentler to the hair, but partly washes away with each shampoo.  Demi-permanent, to a degree, and Permanent color needs to be deposited inside the cuticle with a Developer, hence damaging to the structure of the hair, but lasts longer.

• Temporary Color: Covers the hair in liquid or powder form. Intended to be used for a single event use. Washes out in one or few washes.

• Semi-permanent: Coats the hair with pigmentation with a developer that lasts a few weeks to a few months. Begins vivid, but fades over time. Good for short periods, non-permanent, and less damaging results.

• Demi-permanent: Coats and deposits (usually with a peroxide based Developer) to give a few months of results. Tone fades over time, but is more effective than Permanent for porous / damaged hair. Great for toning highlighted or bleached hair.

• Permanent: Deposits (usually with an ammonia based Developer) inside the cuticle to give a permanent result. However, color may fade or wash out easier than Demi-permanent with porous / damaged hair with open cuticles.

Bleaching, lightening, lifting, and de-coloring is the opposite of coloring in that the purpose of the process is to remove or strip out the color pigments that are currently existing on or in the hair, be it natural or previously colored.  Like permanent coloring, this process requires opening of the cuticles to remove the color pigments from the core of the hair; hence, it’s very damaging to the structure of the hair.

However, if you’re wanting to go much lighter, blonde, or go to an ash / cooler tone, there is no way around it than to bleach, lighten, or de-color. 

Getting the hair color that you want isn’t as simple as applying that color and getting the result.  Most hair is already pigmented naturally with a blend of pigments that mix with the color being applied to create a different color / shade.  So, to create the color result that you want, one must know what pigments are already in the hair shaft, as well as how much, and understand how the new color being applied will behave and react to create the resulting color.  Sometimes certain color pigments need to be offset, enhanced, or even removed because the result cannot be achieved with any formulation with the existing pigments. 

Remember in grade school when all colors got mixed on the paint pallet or in the rinsing bowl everything turns dark gray brown, not the vivid primary colors that it was before.  Hence base color preparation, new color formulation, understanding the hair as a medium, and understanding how the specific color product and pigments work, is critical in getting the exact color result that you desire.

Opposite to the Developer which opens the cuticle for color pigment depositing, the purpose of glossing, glazing, and keratin is to seal up the cuticle so the hair becomes less porous and thus shinier and healthier looking and feeling as a post permanent coloring application.  Glossing products are usually semi- or demi-permanent products that partly deposit into the cuticles to help seal in the pigments and the cuticles, and can last from weeks to over a month.  It may also be used with color pigments to tint or tone the hair at the same time.  Glazing products fall into temporary color category which coats the exterior for the shine, but lasts only few weeks as it wears off after each wash.  Results of glossing and glazing may depend on the existing damage and porosity of the hair.  Keratin treatments, are similar to temporary in that it is a coating on the exterior layer; however, are different in that its usually heat activated and chemically bound to the hair structure for a lasting result, up to few months.  It may also partially smooth or straighten any existing texture or curls, but fade out any color during the heating process.

Same color can look tacky and cheap, or luxurious and attractive depending on the design, dimension, and tone.  It’s this finer difference of hair designing using different color application techniques with tone and shade blending that makes hair color seem more natural, dimensional, and attractive.  Flat single solid color and blonde bleached-out look of highlights on top of highlights is not in fashion.  As with the general publics’ acquired taste for fine wine, cheese, and chocolate, with the advent of social media, people have come to expect hair color designs (e.g. sun-kissed balayage, soft subtle ombré, micro- babylights, etc.) that not only look like the stars, but beautiful when its freshly colored to looking natural until the day they are up for their next color touch up.  Hence, hair colorists spend years mastering application techniques, and make it their full-time job to learn and keep up with the latest design trends.

1. Know the current condition of your hair

2. Minimize lightening and developer use for the desired color result

3. Treat it to seal the cuticle and protect the hair structure
   

Knowing the current condition of your hair and the limits to what can be done to it is the first step in minimizing the damage.  For example, the condition of your hair may limit whether you can go from a dark brunette to a blonde in one appointment, require multiple appointments in phases, or not at all without risking breakage.

Minimizing lightening or developer use will depend on how bright you need to get to, desired color and tone (more lightening is required for cooler colors and tones), and whether you choose to go a certain color in one process, one appointment, or over multiple processes and appointments. If you’ve got healthy hair and want to do a fashion color for one-time only, it may be ok to use a stronger developer if needed. However, if you’re wanting that multi-dimensional balayage, doing it over multiple appointments will result in a better outcome, less damage, and lower cost.

Treating the hair with a post cuticle sealant like glossing, glazing, or keratin may improve the effects of damage to a point where it tangles less, looks shiner, and feels silkier than your natural condition. Hence, its not necessarily eliminating damage, but treating it to look, feel and seem like less or no damage, and in some cases healthier.
 

For a customized hair color and design with reduced damage, make an appointment to see one of our experts who can guide you to a healthier color.

About Emily J Salon

Emily J is one of Atlanta's top full service hair, makeup and skin care salon located in Duluth, GA and Atlanta, GA (Emory University).  Our expertise is in precision haircuts, custom color & balayage, keratin treatment, permanent waves & straightening, skin care, makeup, and bridal services. 

Emily J's team is comprised of top international master hair stylists, makeup artists, and estheticians.  Each and every one of the servicing professionals are trained in the finest techniques and recognized as leaders in their disciplines.  Just observe and you'll see the difference in how Emily J's stylists cut and feel the difference in how Emily J's estheticians treat.

For appointments with one of our experts:

Contact us in Duluth, GA

• duluth@emilyjsalon.com

• 770-418-9882

Contact us in Atlanta, GA

• emory@emilyjsalon.com

• 404-600-2170

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